• Half Sauced

    July 18, 2013
    Photography, Spain

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    Bueno, pues. We actually went to Terra Mundi for lunch today instead of dinner. It was full and busy, which was nice to see. They had a bigger selection for the lunch menu, which confirms what I thought: the dinner menu is the same cost cause it’s the specials from lunch. Which means that the dinner menu is technically discounted since usually dinners are more expensive. We wound up relaxing most of the day, though we considered going out and doing things several times, but each time goal passed and we wound up staying in until dinner.

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    For dinner we went back to La Tapaderia, which has such good, gourmet food. We watched people out the window, and noted again the increased police presence. The thing I notice most about the police around here versus at home is that here they are not trying to entrap people or catch them doing things, but just let folks know that they are there, and they are there to prevent crime. I noticed that the light bars on police cars light up solid at night like running lights. Increased visibility, instead of trying to hide them so they can surprise people: “haha, GOTCHA. Here’s a fine.”

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    After dinner we went for a short walked on Paseo del Prado, taking pictures of things and running around half-sauced.

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    2 comments on Half Sauced
  • Chamberí

    July 17, 2013
    Photography, Spain

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    After our usual breakfast buffet we decided to go to a laundromat near Antón Martín to do the laundry we’ve accumulated so far. It was nice, with Elecrolux machines, and everything was done within an hour. Afterwards we weren’t totally sure exactly what we wanted to do, so we started walking in the direction of my old neighborhood up Paseo de Castellana. We went by the Plaza de Colón, and then up to Alonso Martinez, eventually on to Plaza de Olavide. From there we walked back to the hotel, and relaxed until we went out for dinner.

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    We went back to Terra Mundi again. This time we got a different waitress that wasn’t nearly as good. The food was still excellent. I got pulpo again, and David got codillo, which is a pork joint with its meat, slow cooked. It was extremely good meat, very tender. Afterward, with a half bottle of wine each in us, we walked up to the Cibeles fountain and fought for some space to take photos. The Palacio de Cibeles used to be the Palacio de Comunicaciones, but they have mostly retooled it as an exposition space. It is very iconic for Madrid, right alongside Cibeles herself.

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    2 comments on Chamberí
  • Vacations

    July 16, 2013
    Photography, Spain

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    We decided to take another vacation day, so we spent most of the day hanging out. At 9pm we went back to Terra Mundi to get more delicious Gallego food. We decided afterwards to take a walk through the Madrid twilight, and wound up at a Starbucks. We tried David’s partner card, to no avail, but the nice barista, impressed that a fellow partner from so far away, and dismayed that David’s card didn’t work in Spain when hers works in France, gave us a discount anyway. It was nice to, for once, have my name spelled right on the first try again! Ah, Spain, you get me.

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    Somehow even the Starbucks coffee here tastes better, despite coming from the same silly machines. We also got some little souvenir demitasse, because what better way to celebrate Spain than to buy cups at Starbucks? We made our way back to the hotel through the bustling night streets. Madrid really does have a different feel after dark. Vibrant, bustling… Little Punkies with skateboards under arm, and the most amazing green tinged afro full of springy tight curls. Ah, Madrid.

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    4 comments on Vacations
  • Thyssen!

    July 15, 2013
    Art, Photography, Spain

    Buenas noches, todos. El post de hoy lo trae la Sangria! Viva!

    WE just got back from possibly the best dinner I have ever had. We wanted to go back to Terra Mundi, but they were closed. So we decided since we did not spend very much today to go to the fancier expensive place near us. La Taperia. They are cheap for what they offer. The food was completely delicious. We had Bacalao (cod), which was breaded with a little cheese beneath, then fried, with ratatouille; and an iberico pork chop that was literally the best pork chop either of us has ever had in our lives. It was tender like filet mignon, and flavorful and delicious. I’ve had Jamon Serrano Iberico before, but this… This was culinary magic.

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    Anyway, our morning was taken up with exploring the Thyssen. (Note from David: The Thyssen puts glass in front of most of its paintings making a clear picture very difficult so some of the painting have reflections in them.) We managed almost 3 hours before we got totally arted out and needed to go do something else. The modern art collection in the Thyssen is wonderful. We discovered one of my new favorite Dalis, which is a small, cute one. we also managed to make it to the Impressionists before zonking out. The Monet of the Charing Cross Bridge is beautiful, but we realised that it is particularly impressive from a distance. We came to the consensus that impressionist are best viewed from about 10 feet away. Also amongst the many works we saw were 3 very adorable Van Goghs.

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    It is interesting to note that the General Method of Art Viewing (GMAV, if you will) has not changed over the years. Its proper execution follows:

    1. Walk into a room int he museum of choice (in this case, the Thyssen)
    2. Approach a Work of Art (do not look at it yet)
    3. Read the Name, the Artist and the Date on the plaque (use at least 20 seconds for this step)
    4. Glance at the Work (use less than 5 seconds)
    5. Walk away, repeat.

    I saw this method being used with great fidelity throughout the three floors of the Thyssen. I, of course, rebelled and chose one or two works in a room that stood out at me to stare at for several minutes. What an odd sight I must have been! Although I suppose that is a good way of being able to say you have “seen” the museum…

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    After being impressioned by the likes of Monet, Degas, and Renior, we were craving coffee, so we went North from the museum up Paseo de los Recoletos, where there is the Terraza del Espejo, a picturesque little bar in between the two directions of Paseo de Castellana, right across from the national library. I lamented the fact that the archeology museum is still closed for renovations as we went past. In my first stint in Spain, it was my favorite place to hang out, and it sparked my interest in many cool things, including ancient Egypt.

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    After our coffee, we headed back to the hotel and hung out until dinner, deciding not to push ourselves much and attempt to go to the Prado. We were still absorbing all the art that we saw today in the Thyssen! We are now capping off our evening with the wine the hotel gave use, which tastes like orange peels and good dirt. David has informed me that is what they call “earthy” and “zesty”. Snobs.

    3 comments on Thyssen!
  • TerraMundi

    July 14, 2013
    Photography, Spain

    David posted the main blog today, but I wanted to talk a little about our dinner tonight. There’s a little place right up Calle Lope de Vega from us called TerraMundi. It’s a Gallego themed restaurant/bar that has a day and a night menu. two course meal with wine and dessert for 10,50. Did I mention that it is Gallego? Cause I swear, it’s some of the best food in Spain. We got crema fria de calabaza and a torta pasculina de espinacas for the starters, which were extremely delicious. Then for the main, I had ordered pulpo a la plancha and ribs. Well, when david heard me say that they had octopus as a main, he said, oh, yeah, squid… and I corrected him, no, octopus. However the correction hadn’t soaked in. So he was expecting calamari for one of the plates, when in fact what we got was two octopus tentacles with some potatoes on the side. 

    apparently David has never eaten octopus before. He was intimidated by the suckers, and as he ate it he looked like he feared it might rise up off the plate and grab him. He reported, however, that it tasted good and he in fact liked it. So that was good. He also got to try torta de Santiago for the first time. 

    The menu included a half a bottle of wine per person, so the waitress came up and gave us a bottle each and said “el menu incluye mitad de botella, vale.” to which I responded “Vale” and we drank or vino gallego. Which was exquisite. David had a red wine and I had a rose wine.  Now we’re back at the hotel, and they left us a gift bottle of wine as a (slightly late, but who’s counting) welcome gift. It’s a tinto from rioja. It’s 14.5% alcohol. We’re deciding if tonight’s the night…

    2 comments on TerraMundi
  • David Chimes In

    July 14, 2013
    Photography, Spain

    So we woke up to get breakfast returned to our room and decided that it was a good day to lounge. So to begin I haven’t posted any photos of our hotel which is tucked into a side street directly across from the Museo del Prado.

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    Also while attempting to follow the Tour de Francia en espanol. I edited some of the photos that hadn’t made it in to the blog over the past couple of days. The first couple are from Retiro which is definitely one of my favorite places so far, and then some street views that caught my eye, followed by a flower from Real Jardin Botanico.

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    I also pulled out my SLR and was messing with it which led in to an impromptu photo shoot. Other than when I left the SD card in the computer and used my phone, all of the photos on our trip have been with my little Nikon V1 but I also brought the D5100 which until today has just sat patiently in its bag hoping for attention. So other than being in Madrid these photos have nothing to do with Spain. Say Hola to my lovely wife/translator/tour guide/other half….

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    So in my couple of days here the strangest thing for me is still the insistence of beggars, some times walking down the street I fear that they will lock on and not stop following and I’ll just end up with a train of insistent, petting beggars. Probably a bit of an exaggeration but still an amusing thought. On a different note I really wish that the Palacio Real allowed photos to be taking inside because the Stradivari instruments were amazing to look at, although better yet I wish I could hear them be played. Also after a quick google search some people don’t listen to the no photos rule, so if you google Palacio Real Stradivarius there are tons of pictures of them. Any who until tomorrow, Buenas Tardes.

    3 comments on David Chimes In
  • I Got to See the Mona Lisa

    July 14, 2013
    Art, Spain

    The first day we went to the Prado, my eye caught on something familiar, which is not unusual since I knew a lot of the paintings from the first time we were here. But what registered in my periphery was both familiar and unfamiliar. That stare… that half smile… not something I’d actually seen in person. I actually initially walked past it, then did an about face about 10 feet away and marched right back. I know where I saw that before, that’s the Mona Lisa! Except, wrong museum, and there was so much… different with it. It was weird. So I stopped and looked at it.

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    The painting in front of me was… bright, beautiful, colorful, human. She’s not lost her mystery for looking like a real person. Ok, so maybe she’s not quite as refined, but the stylistic differences are charming. She looks real, tired, but almost happy. The landscape in the background is calming, and I love the little bridge over the river. The whole painting is bright and uplifting, soft and engaging. I feel like I’m about to sit down to have a pleasant conversation over wine with a nice italian lady.

    What makes this copy of the Mona Lisa stand out from all the others is its age. It sat in the royal collection from 1666 onwards, being called a handmaiden of Leonardo Abince, assumed to be another woman made in the style of the Mona Lisa. It was pulled from the Prado’s storage in 2011 and had a technical analysis done on it, which showed that it was an original copy of the Mona Lisa made simultaneously. This was evidenced by the lower layers of both paintings, which pretty much match perfectly. The painting was likely done by one of Leonardo’s closest apprentices, either Salai or Fancisco Melzi.

    So if you want to see the Mona Lisa up close, come to the Prado! No line, no glass, no throbbing mob of people. Just a wall, a painting, and the enchantment of her smile.

    2 comments on I Got to See the Mona Lisa
  • A Little Egypt in Madrid

    July 13, 2013
    Photography, Spain

    Madrid turns into a different place on the weekends. The people on the streets are more chatter-y, more relaxed on Saturdays.  After the wonderful hotel breakfast buffet, we went over to the Real Jardin Botanico, where we walked in, looked up at a really nifty pomegranate tree in bloom, were ready to take a picture of it… and then realised we left the memory card to David’s camera in my computer back at the hotel. Since reentry means repaying, we decided to use David’s phone camera instead. It actually worked remarkably well, since it has a macro setting and all kinds of cool stuff like that. Thus, the first few photos are courtesy of David’s Samsung Galaxy S III.

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    There were a few areas in the garden that were fairly barren due to soil renewal projects, so we didn’t spend real long on the whole thing, but we did go through several very nice areas. There was a phtography show in the little show building, so we went through that. Half of it was all about the human body, with a bunch of artful nudes and some semi-abstract composures. On the other side was an exposition of the evils of colonialism and such. Mostly French. Apparently the French weren’t very nice (big surprise).

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    We also went through the greenhouses. My favorite is the cold greenhouse, built in 1856. It is iron, glass and stone, with all kinds of ferns and a wonderful little pond. We also went through the desert, subtropical and tropical greenhouses, which held a few nice flowers. Ultimately we went and sat in a circle that used to house a positively gigantic, old wisteria 15 years ago. The plant is still there, but the bulk of it was cut back. I’m assuming a bunch of it died in the intervening years.

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    We went back to the hotel after the garden to get david’s memory card so he could stop feeling silly taking pictures with his phone while he had a nice camera around his neck (aren’t camera necklaces in these days? no? what do I know about fashion…), then set out across Madrid to the Temple of Debod. It may sound confusing that there is an Egyptian temple from 200bc sitting in Madrid just North of the palace, however, there is, and it is a really cool monument. In the mid 1960’s, when the Asuan dam was being built, Spain was one of the countries that helped Egypt move the old nubian temples that were going to be completely flooded out, most specifically the Abu Simbel temple. The Debod temple was already in the flood area, and remained underwater 9 months out of the year. With the expansion it would have been underwater all the time.

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    To thank the various governments who helped, Egypt donated 5 temples to the participating companies, with Spain getting the Debod temple. In 1968, when they received it, Madrid constructed a park around the temple reminiscent of an upper-class ancient egyptian house garden, complete with a screen of large trees, palm trees, and a little lake around the temple. They also built it in an East-West orientation, as close to the original orientation as possible. The temple is free to go in. It has 5 interior rooms plus a side room, a little granite idol holder, and a bunch of cool carvings. It also has an upstairs section, but that was closed off during our visit.

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    Once we had gotten our fill of ancient Egypt, we made our way to Plaza de España, where there is a bronze statue of Don Quijote and Sancho Panza. We headed back to our hotel down Gran Via and across a few streets we hadn’t explored yet, encountering some very nice 19th century architecture on the way. In that area, we encountered our first moros of the trip, but rather than pickpocket us, they instead chose to scare David. I guess he just smiles too much. For dinner we went to cafe/bar Plateria Museo, where we had patatas bravas, alioli, and empanada gallega de lomo.

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    3 comments on A Little Egypt in Madrid
  • Federico De Madrazo

    July 13, 2013
    Art, Spain

    We did not make it to the Prado today, however yesterday we had two paintings that really made an impression, so I decided to go ahead and write about this one today. The rooms that we went through yesterday were 19th century Spanish painters. Rosales had a very loose, flowy style. Madrazo, on the other hand, has a much more detail oriented style. He makes fantastic use of lighting details, and his subjects pop off the canvass like they are touchable. He makes hair look soft and luscious, skin look smooth, and fabric look silky. The painting that really caught our attention is this one of Amalia de Llano y Dotres, Condesa de Vilches.

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    According to the plaque on the wall, Amalia was great friends with Madrazo. She was a writer and a thinker. The description talks about how she’s seductive, and such, but I disagreed. Looking at this painting, she looks flat out happy. Her cute smile and playful eyes fill the entire room, and one is lost in the luxuriant surroundings, transported to another time through the window of the canvas. Odd to note, the picture of the painting makes her look much more seductive than in person. Something about the reproduction of the painting steals her soul and makes her have a different energy. When one is in the room with her, one can imagine Madrazo asking her to pose, and she responds, coqueta, of course I’ll pose for your silly painting! Her blue dress falls gracefully on the chair, and she holds her fan as though she forgot it was there with the amusement of this pose. Madrazo’s mastery of detail and the playful joy of this painting keeps you completely captivated, and will leave you smiling and feeling happy yourself, as you move on to other works, perhaps with a little spring in your step.

    3 comments on Federico De Madrazo
  • A Quick Note About Comments

    July 13, 2013
    Uncategorized

    Hi everyone! Thank you all for the wonderful comments! I have to actually manually approve any first time commenters before the site will let them show. So if you haven’t commented before and it doesn’t show up at first, it will once I get back to the computer!

    Thanks, and now, back to the adventure.

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